Within a couple hours of our arrival in Granada, other than being grossly overcharged for the taxi from the train station to the apartment, we were thinking that here are the friendliest people we have encountered in Spain. We had this impression confirmed several times over the course of the next few days, e.g., with the cashier at the supermarket and with the owner of our local panadereia.  A produce vendor, a waiting customer, and we all had a good laugh when I asked for a cuarto (quarter) kilo of apricots and the vendor heard quatro (four) kilos.

We both wanted to visit Granada and would have gone straight from Valencia if the rail connections weren’t so bad (we figured out why, details latter). Granada didn’t disappoint, and if it wasn’t for not having a beach, plus not so great travel connections, it would be our favorite town in Spain so far. As it stands, that honor still lies with Valencia.

Seville to Granada

Seville is a 3 ½ hour train ride (or so we thought) from Granada. As usual, when we arrived at the station, we immediately checked the departure board. For those who haven’t traveled in Europe by train, all stations have arrival and departure boards, similar to those in airports. The departure board displays time, train number, destination, track, and any notes. If your destination isn’t listed, don’t fret: look for the departure time and train number; if those match your ticket, your stop just isn’t the final destination. Our departure had an extra note on it. We thought it said that for stops after Granada change in Antequera…wrong. What it actually said was that at Antequera, we had to change to a bus for Granada. So the last 1 ½ hours were by bus, not too bad but not the train. Apparently, Granada’s train station and some tracks enroute have been under construction for 4-5 years and any trains going north or west connect in Antequera on a bus. By the way, trains in Spain, as in other parts of Europe, depart exactly on time to the minute.

The train leaving Seville was the most scenic so far. We went through vineyards and olive farms, gently climbed over a few hills, and saw charming whitewashed Andalusian towns in the background: the picture we had in our minds’ eyes of southern Spain.

Arrival in Granada

We arrived in Granada on the bus, at the train station. Our Airbnb host had instructed us to take a taxi from there to the apartment. (We should have known better; we walked back to the train station when we left). Only a few taxis were waiting to meet the three arriving buses, and we ended up waiting 10-15 minutes. We generally prefer Uber or Lyft, when available, although we have had positive experiences with taxis in several places, such as Barcelona, Guanajuato, and Colombia.

Our taxi driver was friendly and spoke some English. We were both watching the meter, then got distracted at one point and the meter at least doubled. Bottom line is that we got ripped off; what should have been an 8-10 € ride turned out to be 16 €. Our Airbnb host was noticeably upset when he learned this and asked if we took down the license or cab number; unfortunately, we hadn’t.

Our Airbnb turned out to be great! Our cost all in for a week was $65 per night for a full one-bedroom, comfortable couch, well equipped kitchen. This amount was less than Seville but more than Valencia, although we were in the old town in Granada but not in Valencia. So far, the Airbnb quality has been much better in Spain than in Latin America.

Exploring Granada

One activity we enjoy doing in Spain (as in other places) is checking out the local mercado. The one in Granada is significantly smaller than the one in Valencia, but with more eating places. The first time we went was about 2 pm (14:00) on a Saturday. After we purchased our produce, we were going to grab something to eat…not a chance! All the tables were full at every food vendor. After waiting around for a few minutes, we decided to try a different day. We returned Monday at 1 pm and what a difference: empty tables, we could order leisurely. The market was also quieter on Monday, as the seafood stalls (no fishing on Sunday), as well as some others, were closed.

We had the same experience as we were wandering around town looking for a place for lunch that Saturday; most places were packed. At one restaurant that really intrigued us, we didn’t stand a chance at 3 pm, returned a few days later at 1 pm, no problem. Most places are open for lunch from 1-5 pm. If wanting to avoid crowds, go before 1:30; that became our modus operandi, and we never had an issue again.

Alhambra

The number one destination in Granada is the Alhambra, the old Moorish fortress, castle and palace overlooking the city. About a 20-minute walk from the old town, or the C1 route minibus takes those not wanting to climb the hill. Getting tickets for the Alhambra requires booking in advance; tickets go on sale (and often sell out) three months ahead. We lucked out, we got ours about four days ahead while we were in Seville. Apparently, sometimes additional tickets become available a few days to two weeks before the desired date. When purchasing tickets through the easy to navigate website, you are given an assigned time for the Palacio National; you are free to enter the Alhambra any time that day to explore its other attractions, including extensive gardens.

If you plan on going directly to the palace at your assigned time, know that it’s about a 20-minute walk from the entrance of the Alhambra to the entrance of the Palacio National.

The only misinformation is that the website says tickets need to be printed out and can be done at kiosks at the ticket office. When we got there, we were able to use the tickets on our phone.

If you want a map (recommended, although the property is fairly well signed), get one before entering and ask around because while they are free, it’s not obvious where they are.

We spent a pleasant afternoon wandering around for about two to three hours, looking at the various building, palaces, two small museums, and gardens. We are glad we did the Alcazar in Seville before the Alhambra; otherwise the Alcazar, although pretty spectacular, might have paled in comparison.

Albaicin

The Albaicin (has alternate spellings) is the old Moorish neighborhood, a very hilly, scenic area of white washed houses.

It sits high on a hill opposite the Alhambra.

Wandering around this area, you won’t be alone, and while some guidebooks caution about walking around, we never felt unsafe, but we were there only during the day, totally enjoying meandering through its narrow streets.

Old Town

Since our Airbnb was located right in the old town, we got lots of opportunities to wander around and explore every day. This area contains the massive Granada Cathedral and the Royal Chapel, plus the Alcaiceria, the site of the original Moorish silk and spice market. Unfortunately, today the Alcaiceria is mainly just a crowded string of tourist shops.

Royal Chapel

We chose not to visit the inside of the cathedral; we missed the free time (Sunday 3-6 pm) and while the cost of 5 € isn’t that much, we had read that the Royal Chapel was more interesting. It’s certainly more intimate, and there’s only a certain amount of churches that a person can do (although Ann likes to peek in to every one we pass). The Royal Chapel is free on Wednesday afternoon but requires an online reservation. We paid the regular admission of 5 € which includes an audio guide, and we spent about an hour inside. This chapel, beautiful inside and out, contains the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella, alongside those of Philip the Handsome and Joanna the Mad. Visitors can walk downstairs to the crypt to see the actual coffins. The chapel also has a display of Queen Isabella’s fine art collection.

In conclusion, we enjoyed many hours happily wandering around the much-to-our-liking city of Granada. And by the way, all the street musicians we passed were quite good. Even though the city has no beach, who knows, we might be back.

Next Up: Almeria, our last stop in Spain – for now

Ian & Ann