Tulum

Tulum was one of our most anticipated stops on the trip. We’d read glowing descriptions such as “tropical paradise”. Unfortunately for us, the reality didn’t match the hype. Tulum is two areas, and they are worlds apart, not simply the 5 physical kilometers that actually separate them.

Arriving in Tulum

To get from the Vidanta property to Tulum, we took the resort shuttle for $5 each which got us to Playa del Carmen. Then a few blocks walk got us to the ADO bus station where we could pick up bus tickets to Tulum for 80 pesos* each.

The first Tulum is a 10 kilometer strip along the beach filled with $300-500 eco, yoga-infused, boutique hotels and beach clubs.

At the northern end of this route lies the ruins that put Tulum on the map.

The second Tulum is the pueblo about 5 kilometers inland. This is the part of Tulum where some hotels, most Airbnb’s and short- and long-term rentals are located, and is the area where we stayed.

While we never felt unsafe walking or biking around Tulum pueblo, be aware that many of the dwellings reflect the poverty that exists here. Probably the poorest town where we have stayed since our time in San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala.

Our Airbnb was located in the mixed Mexican and gringo neighborhood of La Veleta, a neighborhood in transition. When the owner of our Airbnb arrived in 2009, hers was the only lot; now many low profile hotels, condos, and houses exist with more under construction.

The gringos here with whom we spoke have mixed feelings, noting that progress is good but also worried that the pueblo’s infrastructure won’t be able to handle the growth. They are also a bit comforted in the knowledge that the Tulum coastal strip will not become an area of high rises due to the fact that no water or electricity delivery system exists, and each property provides its own water and electricity.

To get from our neighborhood to downtown Tulum was about a 30 minute walk or 10-15 minute bike ride (at least at our slower pace). On the first day, we decided that bikes were preferred (even though taxis are inexpensive), and so we got to practice those long lost skills needed to propel a bicycle through space.

From downtown Tulum to the beach is about a 30 minute bike ride which means it was a 40 minute ride for us from our Airbnb. So going to the beach wasn’t something to take lightly. The first part was through neighborhood streets, and we figured out quickly how to stay off of the main road. Then a long stretch on a very nice bike/walking path.

Once at the coast, the option is to head north or south.

To the south are most of those aforementioned boutique hotels, many with fenced-off entrances. We didn’t notice many locations where it was easy to access the beach, although all beaches are public under Mexican law. Most of these hotels here are $300-500 per night, but some accommodations not on the beach side are available for less. The road is narrow, has a lot of traffic, and is without a bike path. Luckily, for peds and cyclists, the traffic is all moving slowly.

Head north and after about 7 minutes (by bicycle) arrive at a public entrance to the beach with ample bike parking, mostly chain your bike to a tree, not much car parking though. The traffic along this stretch is also a bit heavy although not as heavy as going south.

Once on the beach, it’s gorgeous, with warm turquoise blue water, soft sand and a gentle slope getting into the water. Unfortunately when we were there, most days were windy with quite a few waves and blowing sand. Hence our usual spreading a blanket on the sand was not the most pleasant way to spend a few hours, but we did it a couple of times anyway.

Tulum pueblo has a few grocery stores including a Chedraui, as we had in Isla Mujeres. The problem is that this Chedraui here is not run very well (in the words of out Airbnb host, “We have the worst Chedraui.”). Having arrived in Tulum on Sunday, we did our grocery shopping on Sunday afternoon, and it took us almost an hour to check out, with lanes being closed even though the lines were 10-15 people deep. By this time, it was starting to get dark, and we raced (a relative term) back to our apartment, not wanting to ride the bikes in the dark, not because it was unsafe but because we had to continually dodge potholes and other hazards, such as stray dogs.

We generally enjoyed riding out bicycles through the pueblo, with friendly people and schoolchildren in immaculate uniforms. In Tulum, as in many areas of Mexico, children attend school either during the morning or afternoon session. Although as usual, we ate most breakfasts and dinners at “home”, we did find a few favorite restaurants for lunch. We dined twice at La Querida, with a medium cheese pizza (reminder: Ian’s favorite food) for 100 pesos* and two margaritas for 70 pesos. Down the block was El Milagrito, where we enjoyed nachos for 75 pesos, a burrito for 140 pesos, 2 beers for 50 pesos, and two margaritas for 90 pesos. Another day, we had lunch at El Rincon Chiapaneco (recommended by our Airbnb host), a very local establishment with a wide variety of traditional Mexican food, where we enjoyed an assortment of tacos and delicious enchiladas in mole sauce. Funny, when we tried to park our bicycles in the rack in front of the restaurant right next door, a waiter there told us that if we were not going to eat there, we had to use the rack in front of the other restaurant. Also while in Tulum, we took our laundry (via bicycle) to the local lavanderia, 68 pesos (less than $4 US) for 4.5 kg.

On our last evening in Tulum, we splurged a bit and treated ourselves to the Dining Experience, which serendipitously Ian had just read abut in a blog post by Two Expats Mexico. This unique event took place in the Manglex eco hotel in a stunning setting with its own cenote almost at the end of the southern hotel zone.

It was all about Yucatan food and drink and history and tradition, while enjoying several delicious unusual but traditional courses and cocktails. Not sure which we enjoyed most, the education, the tasting, the camaraderie with our fellow diners, our lively guide, Luis, or all of the above. Or maybe it was the opportunity to try out our newly learned mixologist skills as we each prepared a cocktail for someone else. We highly recommend the Dining Experience, perhaps our favorite activity during our week in Tulum.

As we decided shortly after our arrival in Tulum that it was not a good possibility for us as an expat destination, we did very little research on the cost of housing. That said, we saw listings starting at $1000 per month and several in the $1500 per month range and up from there. We can say, however, that the cost of groceries and eating out (other than in the southern hotel zone) was maybe just a bit higher than we experienced in Isla Mujeres.

*The exchange rate at time of writing was 18.5 Mexican pesos to the US dollar.

Next up: Playa del Carmen and Revisit Puerto Morelos