It was with a little trepidation that we touched down at the Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo airport (ZIH). About 10 years ago, we took a cruise with our friends, Art and Ellie, and one of the stops was Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. We enjoyed a great day relaxing on the beach and exploring the town of Zihuatanejo and vowed to come back. The problem was that flights to ZIH were always expensive so we never made it back. As we were planning our current adventure and booked Isla Mujeres, Zihuatanejo was in the back of our minds, and it turned out to be a popular location with US and Canadian snowbirds and expats, so we considered adding it to our itinerary. We noticed that we could fly from Cancun to ZIH inexpensively. We did some further research at the US State Department website and while Guerrero province (where Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo are located) had travel warnings, Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo were always excluded. As we mentioned here we own timeshares, and a couple of years ago, WorldMark (which we bought on the resale market) purchased a property in Zihuatanejo about the same time as they purchased one in Isla Mujeres.
So last fall when we booked our airfare to Cancun, we also purchased airfare to Zihuatanejo. Then the landscape changed abruptly in January when the US State Department revised its rating system and listed the whole of Guerrero province with the highest rating of “do not visit” and more importantly, no longer was there an exception for Zihuatanejo. What should we do, cancel this part of our trip? We were already past the cancel date for getting a refund of our WorldMark credits, and our airfare was non-refundable. More online research, including forums frequented by expats living in Zihuatanejo, and nothing there had changed. We also looked at the Canadian government’s website which still had an exception for Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. So we decided to stay the course and keep with our plans of revisiting Zihuatanejo.
Arriving in Zihuatanejo
To fly from Cancun to ZIH required us to go through Mexico City, and the best deal was on Interjet, a Mexican carrier that gets high ratings. A couple of weeks before our departure, Ian happened to visit Interjet’s website and noticed an announcement that some of their flights were moving from Terminal 2 at Cancun airport to Terminal 4 (a new terminal). To get from Playa del Carmen to Cancun airport, it’s possible to take a taxi, a shuttle, or a full size ADO motor coach for much less money (180 pesos* each), in more comfort, so we went that route and purchased our tickets a couple of days ahead of time. The night before we left, Ian checked the Cancun airport website and it listed Interjet going out of Terminal 2, but he became suspicious and luckily Interjet had a chat feature available on their website so he was able to confirm that our flight would leave from Terminal 4. He also found out that the kind of ticket we bought didn’t allow for web check-in and we were required to arrive at the airport two hours ahead of time. Everything went smoothly with our transportation and check-in and walking around Terminal 4 at the Cancun airport, we were pleasantly surprised at what a great terminal it is, with lots a seating, lots of eating places, not an unpleasant place to spend a few hours since we had to arrive at the airport so early. Upon boarding we were very impressed: the spacing between rows was the highest we’ve seen in years, we could both stretch our legs out, almost as good as a first class seat (well, not quite), and to top it off, no one was sitting between us. (Ian likes the window seat; Ann prefers the aisle.)
We had about a three hour layover in Mexico City, and our plan was to visit one of the airport lounges that our Chase Sapphire Reserve credit card allows us to enter for free. But arriving in the terminal, we couldn’t figure out what terminal we were in and couldn’t find any signs for Business Class lounges. We ended up hanging around the terminal and what a difference from Terminal 4 in Cancun. The flight to Zihuatanejo was even less crowded, probably only about 1/3 full, and it was a quick 45 minute flight. Because of our slight apprehension regarding Guerrero province, we had arranged with our lodging to be picked up by a private car for $39. However, leaving the terminal, all was very calm with no mass of humanity clamoring for our attention as in other Latin American airports. Turns out we could have easily saved some money (440 pesos) by using the official taxi provider at the airport, arranging a taxi upon arrival with Transporte Terrestre (ETASA), the only company that is licensed to provide transportation from the airport. We ended up in one of their taxis anyway, as that was the car sent by the resort.
WorldMark Zihuatanejo
The property is somewhat secluded in a peaceful location on a hill overlooking the bay of Zihuatanejo, and all 25 rooms have ocean views, most with balconies. Only two rooms have kitchens (we had only a microwave, coffee maker, and small frig), with no grocery stores and restaurants nearby. The property has an on site restaurant with reasonable prices, probably about half way between US and true Mexican, much less than at Vidanta . The pool area is great, terraced so all the chairs have great bay views. Happy hour is 12-2 and 5-6 pm. To get into town, one can walk, including 170 stone steps, or take a 50 peso taxi ride.
Wandering Around Town
Ann had arranged a late afternoon doctor appointment so we got walking directions from the concierge at WorldMark. We left early and decided to stop for lunch. We discovered a pedestrian only street which is where we choose for lunch.
Two whole fish lunches with sides and papaya water for 270 pesos for both. We weren’t sure why, but the street was very quiet, not many people out and about. We later learned from other resort guests that the activity in town usually picks up at about 7:00 PM, but we were never in town in the evening.
When we walked away from centro, we had definitely left gringo land far behind. After Ann’s appointment, our plan was to pick up some groceries that we could use for light dinners in the room as well as beverages and milk for coffee. We were going to go to one grocery store, but the staff at the doctor’s office gave us directions to a closer one. As we were walking along, we saw a Federales truck pull up with three heavily armed officers, and one got out while the truck blocked the side street. As we crossed, we looked up the street and saw about six heavily armed officers. We think we had stumbled onto a SWAT-type operation. We just kept on walking, probably picking up our pace just a bit. Apparently, no one else except us seemed to notice or care what was going on. In retrospect, this scene could have happened anywhere, and that one officer was probably posted to keep innocents from wandering up the street. A few blocks up street we found the grocery store, made our purchase and caught a taxi back, all without incident. Given this was our first day, we think we were perhaps just a bit hyper-sensitive. At no time during our entire stay exploring the bay and town did we feel in actual danger.
Beaches at Zihuatanejo
Zihuatanejo sits on a bay which has four beaches: Playa Municipal, Playa Madera, Playa La Ropa, and Playa Las Gatas, listed in order of distance from the center of town. Our next day exploring, we decided to wander and discovered a malecon along Playa Municipal, chose one of the several beach bars, and enjoyed margaritas and yummy fajitas.
So relaxing and quiet with just the waves lapping at the shore…well, along with vendors every couple of minutes. We encountered more indigenous women and children attempting to sell various trinkets on this coast than on the Caribbean. Although a few people were swimming at Playa Municipal, the water is not very clear (and perhaps not very healthy either) due to its proximity to fishing boats and other harbor activity.
After lunch, we went in search of a lavanderia since doing laundry through the concierge at WorldMark was too expensive. Once we found one (we think we walked right past it a few times), we decided to return a few days later. That evening, Ian started having a little digestive issues, so we abandoned our original plan for the following day, figuring a more remote beach (Playa La Ropa or Playa Las Gatas) might not be the best idea. So we moved up laundry day. Dropping our dirty clothes off, we were told about six hours, so we opted to explore nearby Playa Madera and chose another beach bar to hang out, enjoy some agua con limon, cerveza, and delicious fish tacos (tiny seasoned pieces of local fish instead of the larger pieces we’re used to in the US) and happily bask in the torpor that the heat and waves caused as we wiled away the hours waiting to pick up our clean laundry.
Then it was time to walk back to our temporary home and the 170 stairs we had to climb to get there. A good way to counteract the lethargy that had overcome us.
The next day we went over to Playa Las Gatas, named after a shark which used to inhabit the waters but is now extinct. To get to the beach requires a 50 peso round trip water taxi (small motor boat) ride (visions of Lake Atitlan). Boats leave starting at 8am with the last boat back at 5:30pm. We had read that Las Gatas is excellent for snorkeling. Arriving at the beach, we immediately saw why: very clear water which, not surprisingly, also had a lot of rocks. We did manage to get in the water a few times and to wile away the afternoon on a couple of comfy lounge chairs at one of the beachside restaurants. Notice an ongoing theme here? On our return to town, we realized that two different companies offer this water taxi service. When it came time to leave at about 4pm, there seemed to be more white ticket boats than yellow ticket boats and, you guessed it, we had yellow tickets. No biggie because happily our Zihuatanejo lifestyle didn’t require us to be at any specific place at any specific time.
Our final beach day was spent at Playa La Ropa, by far the best beach for swimming, wading, etc. The water is really clear beyond the beach break. The taxi from WorldMark is 210 pesos, but we decided to get a little exercise and walk over, about an hour. Coming back, we took the local bus (van) to centro for 8 pesos each, and then a taxi back to WorldMark for 50 pesos. The beach itself is long so makes for a pleasant walk up and down it, while passing many enterprises offering one-hour massages for 200 pesos and all sorts of water sports, including parasailing, which we both did the first time we were here. Unfortunately, the beach is much more crowded than when we were here 11 years ago. None of the restaurants had any available free lounge chairs (need to get there early in the morning) so we opted to rent two chairs, umbrella, and table for 200 pesos. And of course, with our usual beach food and drink. All in all, a very enjoyable day.
For our last two days in Zihuatanejo, we decided just to just chill and hang around WorldMark, enjoying the view, the pool, and just plain relaxing since our time at the coast was coming to an end (for now) as we are headed inland to explore some of Mexico’s colonial heartland. On our last night, we enjoyed a lovely dinner overlooking the bay at Casa Bahia (just down the road from the bottom of the 170 steps) with our new friends, Kate and Claude.
We saw rentals here starting at about $900 US per month, but guessing some could be found for less. We also noticed condos now being sold (ready in 2019) in an expensive-looking new large luxury complex above Playa La Ropa. We think that the travel ban is affecting tourism to Zihuatanejo because we met mostly Canadians and noticed a lot of real estate ads with their prices reduced. Such as a 1 bedroom condo close to Playa La Ropa for $129,000 and a 2 bedroom for $149,000. However, if the Canadian government also extends the travel ban, the floor will probably drop out because their travel insurance is not valid when visiting a location that has a travel warning in place.
We might return to Zihuatanejo for vacation someday but as an expat destination, as with many other beach locations, we find it too hot and lacking the regular breeze of our favorite beach locations. And we can’t dismiss the issue of feeling trapped, since it’s not safe to travel overland from Zihuatanejo into the interior (especially for gringos), since it would require traversing la Tierra Caliente (hot land) where the heroin is being cultivated to satisfy the US hunger.
**The exchange rate at time of writing was 18.5 Mexican pesos to the US dollar.
Next Up: Queretaro
Ian & Ann
18 Comments
I remember our stop at Zihuatanejo. Looking forward to seeing you soon.
Hi Ellie,
Fond memories of that trip together. Looking forward to seeing you too.
Ian & Ann
Recuerdo haber ido a Colima cuando nuestro barco aterrizó en Zihuatanejo. No puedo recordar la ciudad en sí (itself). Colima también ahora tiene un aviso de viaje.
No te has aburrido con las playas, ya veo. Ellie le gusta sentarse en ellos, pero estoy demasiado inquieto para eso. Disfruto caminando en la playa y disfrutando de la belleza y las bellezas que y quienes (that and who) se puede ver allí.
Hola Art,
Fuimos a Colima cuando nuestro barco aterrizo en el puerto de Manzanillo. Entonces Colima fue muy agradable. Cuando nuestro barco aterrizo en el puerto de Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Ellie y tu fueron a Ixtapa para bucear y fuimos a Playa La Ropa en Zihuatanejo.
Tenemos buenos recurdos de ese viaje y tambien de caminar en la playa en San Diego con ustedes.
Ian y Ana
Paul and I were there in the 80,s and just loved it, now they have IXTAPA not far but not a very Mexican feel, more like the cancun mega hotels. Would love to return one day soon. I’m just not as adventurous as I used to be. Xxx Michelle
Hi Michelle,
We like Zihua better than Ixtapa and enjoyed out time there in February, but Playa la Ropa was more crowded (still not bad) and built up than when we were there 10 years ago.
Ian & Ann
Wondering if you have ever been to Sayulita? Supposedly a really nice beach community with a lot of vegan Americans
Hi Michelle,
We were thinking about going to Sayulita but had heard that it had gotten very touristy and the waters a bit polluted. The towns of Lo de Marco and San Pancho (aka San Francisco), although busy, are supposed to be a bit more authentic. We ended up not going because by the end of our 6 months in Latin America, we preferred to stay put and relax in Puerto Vallarta.
Ian & Ann
Oh my gosh. I just drove up to Sayulita last week while vacationing in Puerto Vallarta – which is gorgeous!
We hated Sayulita. It looked like a kids camp exploded. Overpopulated. No where to park. Super narrow streets. Claustrophobic. And it was off season!
Thought it felt dirty and overrun. We didn’t even stay. Were planning on going to the beach and enjoying lunch. I wouldn’t trust eating at any of those places and I’ve eaten in some questionable restaurants and vendors while traveling.
Hi Annmarie,
Welcome to the blog. I’d heard that about Sayulita, that it had become over tourist-ed. We haven’t made it up there although our bus from Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta passed right by. While you were up there did you visit San Pancho (also called San Francisco) or Lo De Marco. From what we’ve heard they haven’t been overrun as much as Sayulita has.
Ian
As I am writing this, I am currently sipping on a Victoria, watching the sun set over Zihuatanejo’s bay. I just had my most pressing concern addressed and answered: how is the weather treating the last of my garden back in Oregon?
Your piece brought back the memories of the first time my wife and I came to Zihua for our honeymoon. We’ve been back for a minimum of two weeks every year since. We love the contrast of the gringo area around Paseo del Pescador and the somewhat grittiness of the city’s interior. Zihuatanejo feels like real Mexico. I no longer even notice the pick-up trucks full to the brim with armed gladiators. And when I do, they never hestitate in returning a respectful head nod in their direction. In all my time spent exploring this city, or stumbling home from Zorro’s in the dark, have my wife and I felt in danger. ¡Viva la Mexico! ¡Viva la Zihua!
…:..Oh! And yes, those goddamn 172 stone steps are brutal. Our first stay was in Villas el Morro, the hotel on top. Many a skinned shin from an tipsy trip home were had that first visit.
Hi Jasper,
Thank you for your comment and reflection. It’s interesting that you no longer notice the “pick-up trucks full to the brim with armed gladiators”. It’s too bad that Zihua gets lumped together with the rest of Guerrero province for the violent rep. Enjoy the rest of your stay in Zihua!
Ian & Ann
Hi Ann and Ian
Paul and I stayed in Zihuatanejo back in the 80’s before there was an ixtapa and loved that sleepy town, I always wanted to get to Sayulita and was curious what it’s like now but it doesn’t sound as wonderful as I hoped, was going to visit friends in ajijic then go to Sayulita any other suggestions
Hi Michelle,
Sayulita first popped up on our radar about five years ago, with a friend telling us great things about it. Then a couple of years ago we started hearing that it had become over touristed. We’ve heard good things about San Pancho from this blog that we follow (link https://www.neverendingvoyage.com/san-pancho-mexico/) and also Lo de Marcos which are both up the road from Sayulita. We’ve never visited any of these places. The only place we’ve personally been to that’s close to Ajijic is Puerto Vallarta. Let us know where you end up going and what you think.
Ian & Ann
I’ve enjoyed my several visits to Zijuatanejo in the past. I liked it much more when it was a sleepy little fishing village, however. In those days, an inexpensive hotel room was about $20 for a comfortable bed, ceiling fan, tiny fridge and small bathroom. The ceiling fan was barely able to dry the sweat on my brow as I waited for sleep to come.
In those days, the place to be evenings was a small restaurant called ‘Coconuts’ which was run by a gay American. They had great food and the best margaritas ever.
The beach called ‘Las Gatas’ (the cats) was actually named for a raccoon like mammal which has cat-like mannerisms.
The beach called La Ropa was called that because long, long ago, it was said that a junk-like trading boat from Asia hit the rocks at the entrance to the bay and spilled items of cloth and clothing (ropas) which washed up on the beach.
None of the beaches were named due to ‘shark activity’ however, the large rocks you observed while snorkleing were put there in a long arch by an Aztec ruler for the purpose of keeping sharks out of the shallows they protected to keep sharks away so his kids could bathe and swim there safely.
With the advent of narco traficantes and the drug related violence Mexico has become known for lately, I have discontinued trips there and instead I travel to the Yucatan penninsula, as there is very little violence there. To me, now Merida and Progresso are preferred over Cancun, Cozumel, etc.
Hi Tim,
Wow! Thanks for the wealth of information about Zihuatanejo! We wish we would have experienced it the way it was as you described. It had changed quite a bit even in the ten years since we had been there for a day on a cruise. Glad you have found new places that you like. We have heard a lot about Merida but it’s a bit far from the beach for us. But Progreso looks and sounds nice, maybe we’ll have to check it out some time.
Ian & Ann
Having visited this area for almost two decades it was interesting to read your perception. Yes, it has changed. The first time I was in Zihuatanejo , they didn’t have paved streets. Yes it is more touristy and “gentrified” than it used to be. I am impressed that the city fathers have done as well as they have at not letting it become another Ixtapa, though the oldtimers like to whine about all the changes. I have had the pleasure to visit, over the last 40 years, many of Mexico’s beach towns . This is the only one where, when I check into my hotel, they say “Welcome home”, and that’s just what it feels like.
Hi Lynn,
Thank you for your comments. Heartily agree with you about the impressiveness of keeping Zihuatanejo from becoming another Ixtapa. We are hoping the same can be said about Puerto Morelos on Mexico’s other coast. Do any of Mexico’s other beach towns stand out for you? So nice to have a regular destination that feels like home!
Ian and Ann